The Mini Costs More Per Gram
The mini is cute. It's also a markup.
Here's one real powder at Sephora on October 19, 2026:
| Size | Price | Per gram |
|---|---|---|
| Mini, 3.4 g | $29 | $8.53 |
| Full, 8 g | $50 | $6.25 |
The mini costs 36.5 percent more per gram. To buy the full amount in minis you'd pay $18.24 extra. That's 8 divided by 3.4 is 2.353 minis, times $29, is $68.24, minus $50. Our arithmetic.
Small sizes aren't samples. They're a price.
Put a 10 percent auto-replenish discount on both and the premium doesn't change. It stays at 36.5 percent.
Fragrance does the same. A YSL Libre Eau de Parfum ran from $38 for a 0.33 ounce travel spray to $225 at the top of the range. That's $115.15 an ounce at the travel size against about $44.38 an ounce at 5.07 ounces. That's 2.6 times. The size-to-price match at the top is our inference from the range.
A mini makes sense for one thing: testing a shade you could return anyway.
This is our example of one product. It isn't a market average. Run your own on the calculator above.
Opened Makeup: Who Takes It Back
You can't see how a foundation wears until you've worn it.
That's why the return rule matters more than the price.
| Seller | Opened or used policy |
|---|---|
| Sephora | 30 days, new or gently used, proof of purchase. Points are deducted on refund. |
| Ulta | 30 days refund to the original payment. Days 31 to 60 merchandise credit. Government ID required. Returned items aren't resold. |
| Amazon | 30 days. Hygiene seals and liners must be intact. Health-risk items aren't returnable. |
| Nordstrom | Its page says there are no time limits for returns. Beauty-specific rules aren't stated. |
| e.l.f. | A Shade Match Guarantee or refund in 30 days banner. We didn't read the terms. |
Sephora's policy was updated September 2, 2026 for purchases from April 24, 2025. Some Sephora Favorites kits, gift cards and some intimate care are final sale.
TikTok Shop is the trap. Sephora and Ulta both sell there. TikTok Shop returns go through TikTok, not stores or websites. Sephora adds that points and status credit aren't earned there.
We couldn't verify Target, Walmart, CVS or MAC return policies. Pages were blocked or missing.
Check the return rule at checkout. Photograph the shade before you open it.
The Shade You Pick Isn't the Shade You Wear
Foundation changes on your face.
A 2025 study in Scientific Reports measured 32 liquid foundation shades from four brands over time. Lighter shades lost more lightness than darker ones. One brand held its color better than the others.
The study didn't state the test duration in the abstract we read. So any hour count is our estimate.
Here's a practical test:
- Swatch in daylight, from jawline to neck
- Check it again after several hours of wear
- Count the shade range. The Clinique bases at Ulta ran from 8 to 50 colors.
- Look for undertone options, not only a count of shades
A shade count is a count of products, not match quality. We found no accuracy study on shade matching.
Long-wear and waterproof are marketing words. The FDA says some PFAS were intentionally added to lipsticks and eyeshadows for performance. More on that below.
And don't count on SPF in your base. The American Academy of Dermatology says the face needs at least 1 teaspoon of sunscreen. Few people wear that much foundation. That's our inference. See the skincare guide for the dose math.
Eyes: The Clock on Your Mascara
Eye makeup is the one you shouldn't push.
The FDA says bacteria and fungi grow in misused eye products. Manufacturers usually advise replacing mascara two to four months after purchase.
The rules:
- Write the open date on the container
- Replace at two to four months
- Never add saliva or water
- Don't share or swap eye cosmetics
- Discard eye makeup you used during an eye infection
- Use single-use applicators on store testers, and skip lip and eye testers
The FDA doesn't require expiration dates. Spoilage cues it names are drying, separating and changes in color or smell.
Tints are worse. The FDA says permanent lash and brow tints have been known to cause serious eye injuries, including blindness.
Kohl and kajal aren't approved for cosmetic use in the US. They're linked to lead poisoning and subject to an import alert.
And reporting: if you react to a product, you can file a complaint with the FDA's MedWatch or call 1-888-INFO-FDA. Under the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act, companies must report serious adverse events to the FDA within 15 business days.
Nothing here is medical advice. See a clinician about eye pain or infection.
Talc, Asbestos and a Rule That Never Arrived
Powders have a documented problem.
The FDA's advisories on talc-containing makeup:
- March 5, 2019: Claire's eye shadows, a compact powder and a contour palette tested positive for tremolite asbestos
- June 6, 2019: a recall of the Beauty Plus Contour Effects Palette 2 and the Claire's JoJo Siwa Makeup Set
- September 6, 2019: a recall of four City Color products, including blush, a palette and two bronzers
In 2023 the FDA's sampling found no asbestos in 50 talc-containing cosmetics.
But there is still no mandatory testing rule. The FDA proposed one on December 27, 2024 and withdrew it on November 28, 2025.
So talc-free on a label isn't a regulated test. It just means look at the ingredient list.
Mold is a risk in makeup with SPF. Suntegrity's Impeccable Skin sunscreen foundation had a Class I recall on May 24, 2024 for Aspergillus sydowii mold. 1,902 tubes. Makeup with SPF claims is regulated as both a cosmetic and a drug.
Look up recalls in the FDA's enforcement reports by product and lot. openFDA mirrors them but marks its data unvalidated.
Lead in Lip Products
Lipstick gets swallowed a little, so people ask.
The honest read: low short-term risk, unsettled long-term exposure.
The FDA tested lip products. Lead ranged from below detection to about 7 ppm. Over 99 percent of products were under 10 ppm, the FDA's recommended maximum.
A peer-reviewed US sample in 2013 tested 32 lip products. Lead was in 75 percent of them, with a mean of 0.36 ppm. At high use, 68 percent exceeded the chromium intake limit and 22 percent exceeded the manganese limit.
A 2026 Shanghai study found risk negligible at typical use. It found marginal cancer-risk exceedances under a theoretical worst case.
Those three measure different things. Don't set one against another.
If you're pregnant or buying for a child, ask a clinician.
Then there is PFAS. The FDA says certain PFAS are intentionally added to lipsticks, eyeshadows, blushers and nail products. Its December 29, 2025 report found significant data gaps. There is no federal limit.
Some states banned intentionally added PFAS in cosmetics from January 1, 2025. Those are California, Colorado, Maryland, Minnesota and Washington.
Maine and Vermont followed from January 1, 2026. Connecticut is phased in. One source gives Connecticut two different start dates, so check the statute.
The PFAS names the FDA lists include polytetrafluoroethylene and perfluorononyl dimethicone. Scan the ingredient list for them.
What the Label Words Mean
Several words on the box sound official. They aren't.
| Label says | What it means |
|---|---|
| Says approved by the FDA | Not for cosmetics, except color additives |
| FDA registered | Facility paperwork. The FDA says a number does not indicate FDA approval. |
| Hypoallergenic | Whatever a company wants it to mean |
| Dermatologist tested, clean, non-comedogenic | No FDA definition. The FDA lists no approved claims. |
| Fragrance free | No federal standard |
| Talc-free | No mandatory testing rule exists |
| SPF foundation | A cosmetic and a drug. Look for a Drug Facts panel. |
| Value $X on a set | The seller's own comparison |
As of June 30, 2026, the FDA's registration system listed 16,398 facilities and 1,298,361 product listings. That is a big list, not a seal.
The FDA says it doesn't issue certificates.
The ingredient list does have one rule. Ingredients above 1 percent are listed from most to least. At 1 percent or below, any order. Color additives come last. That's 21 CFR 701.3.
Fragrance ingredients may be listed generally as fragrance or perfume. The FDA's fragrance-allergen rule was still not issued as of January 2026.
Color additives need FDA approval before use. That's the one thing the FDA does review.
The FDA's small-business exemption excludes products that regularly contact the eye's mucous membrane. Its page doesn't say whether mascara or eyeliner qualify.
Sale Prices, Points and the Loyalty Math
A sale price needs a real regular price.
Here's what we saw on October 19, 2026:
| Tier | Example |
|---|---|
| Value | e.l.f. Soft Glam Satin Foundation $8. Halo Glow Skin Tint SPF 50 $14. Camo CC Cream SPF 30 $16. Brushes $8 to $9. |
| Mid | Clinique at Ulta. Even Better Makeup SPF 15 foundation, 50 colors, $29 on sale against $39 list. Clinical Serum Foundation SPF 25, 42 colors, $39 against $49. |
| Prestige | Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush setting powder $50 for 8 g |
The Clinique deal is 26 percent off by our math. The Ulta page also says its 21+ Days of Beauty event is over for now. We couldn't confirm when each sale price ends.
The FTC's rule at 16 CFR 233.1 says a former price must be one offered to the public on a regular basis for a substantial period. Treat list prices as unverified.
Loyalty points return about two cents on the dollar.
Sephora gives 1 point per dollar. 500 points are worth $10 off a $10 or larger purchase. That's about 2 percent. Points expire after 12 months idle.
Sephora's VIB tier starts at $350 spent in a calendar year. Rouge starts at $1,000.
Sephora's free shipping starts over $50. e.l.f.'s starts at $35.
Ulta says it has over 46 million rewards members. We didn't capture the point value.
Auto-replenish discounts run 5 to 15 percent. They win only if you finish the product on schedule.
Reviews, Influencers and Fakes
Who wrote the five stars?
The FTC's Consumer Reviews and Testimonials Rule took effect October 21, 2024. It bans fake reviews, bought reviews tied to sentiment, undisclosed insider reviews, review suppression and fake social indicators.
The penalty is cited at up to $53,088 per violation, with 10 warning letters sent in the 2025 holiday season. We found no filed case under the rule.
The named case before the rule: Sunday Riley. In October 2019 the FTC proposed a consent agreement over fake-account reviews posted on Sephora's site. It requires disclosure of material connections.
Influencers have rules too.
Gifts and discounts count. A comment-only disclosure is easily avoidable. Vague tags like partner may not be enough. Brands answer for their networks.
Counterfeits: CBP seized 212,468 perfumes for intellectual-property violations in fiscal year 2025, worth $38.8 million at retail prices. That ranked 5th among health, safety and security commodities by quantity.
We couldn't retrieve a named makeup seizure case. So we won't make one up.
Buy from the brand, Sephora, Ulta or a marketplace listing marked sold and shipped by the brand. Walk away from too-good-to-be-true prices on prestige perfume or palettes.
Patch test new face products for 7 to 10 days if you react easily. That's the Academy's guidance.
Subscriptions and Cancellations
A free trial is a subscription with a delay.
The FTC's click-to-cancel amendments were vacated by the Eighth Circuit in 2025. The FTC restored the old rule text on February 12, 2026 and sought comment on March 13.
The Restore Online Shoppers' Confidence Act still applies. California's AB 2863 covers contracts entered, amended or extended on or after July 1, 2025.
Before you subscribe:
- Find the cancel page
- Screenshot the terms
- Note the discount window
Sephora's Auto-Replenish gives a 10 percent Hot Deal on Charlotte Tilbury. e.l.f. advertises Subscribe & save with auto-delivery.
Nothing here resells. Opened makeup has no resale value. Ulta says it doesn't resell used, damaged or expired products.
And don't buy used. The FDA says do not share makeup.
There's no performance study linking price to wear or safety. The one lab study found brand-to-brand differences in color drift, not differences by price tier.
Dupes: we found no performance study. Compare shade range, ingredient lists and return terms. Whether a lookalike is lawful is a trademark question we didn't research.
Tariffs add noise to prices. The Supreme Court invalidated the IEEPA tariffs on February 20, 2026. Budget Lab says Section 122 tariffs expired July 24 and were replaced by Section 301 tariffs. We found no cosmetics-specific rate.
Who Should Buy Now, Wait, or Walk Away
Six rules. Each one comes from the cases above.
-
Buy now: a base with a shade guarantee or a 30-day opened-product return
Confirm the rule at checkout. Photograph the shade before you open it.
-
Wait on holiday sets until you compute price per gram
Value claims are the seller's own comparison.
-
Wait to replace mascara by the calendar, not by feel
Two to four months. Write the open date on it.
-
Walk away from kohl, unlabeled imports and eye products with no ingredient list
Kohl is linked to lead poisoning and subject to an import alert.
-
Walk away from too-good-to-be-true prices on prestige perfume or palettes
CBP seized 212,468 perfumes in fiscal year 2025. See the skincare guide for imported creams.
-
Walk away from using foundation SPF as sun protection
You won't wear a teaspoon of foundation. That's our inference.
How We Checked It
We read the FDA, the Federal Register, the FTC, the American Academy of Dermatology and CBP. We read Sephora, Ulta, Amazon and e.l.f.'s own pages. We checked them on October 19, 2026. Several studies were read through abstracts.
Nothing here is medical advice. See a clinician about reactions and eye problems.
The pages we used:
- The FDA on eye cosmetic safety
- The FDA on talc
- The FDA on lead in cosmetics
- The FDA on PFAS in cosmetics
- The FDA on registration and listing
- The FDA on shelf life
- The FDA on allergens in cosmetics
- The FDA on cosmetics not being approved
- The Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act
- The 2013 study of metals in lip products
- The 2025 foundation discoloration study
- The FTC's reviews rule questions and answers
- 16 CFR 233.1 on former price comparisons
- CBP's seizure statistics
- Sephora's returns policy
What we couldn't confirm:
- Return policies at Target, Walmart, CVS and MAC
- Sephora's earlier return window
- TikTok Shop's own return and counterfeit rules
- A named counterfeit makeup seizure
- Foundation shade-matching accuracy studies
- e.l.f.'s guarantee terms
- When each sale price ends
- Ulta's points-to-dollar value
- Whether mascara qualifies for the FDA's small-business exemption
- Black Friday 2026 discount depth
This guide is one of 25 in our series on what people research before they buy.